Francisco Bolanos wouldn’t tell me how he makes the smoky salsa brava he dresses his fried potatoes with. Over the phone he told me it’s a “family secret,” though I swear he used the words “jamon stock” when he served them to me a few mornings earlier at Little Madrid Tapas Cafe, a cash-only Andersonville hole-in-the-wall that resets the standard for patatas bravas in a city enamored with Spanish food.

By Christmas Day he’d shifted into full tapas mode with a slim menu of a few sandwiches and bar snacks, including the classic potato omelet tortilla espanola, dates wrapped with bacon and stuffed with cheese, and slices of that salty ham with manchego and Iberian cheese.

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