I am not a fan of suicide, but if I could crawl into the chocolate churro souffle at Regards to Edith I would joyfully eat myself to death. With no regrets, I’d happily gaze down on the runner who snatches the plate away, delivering my remains to the dishwasher, who then blasts what’s left of me down the drain with a howitzer of hot steaming water. But more about this outstanding dessert later.
There’s also a pizza puff on the menu. Ew, right? Hold on now, this one is nothing like those previously frozen ticking time bombs of molten processed cheese. The thin, flaky pastry shimmers with fat, but it’s crackly and light and barely contains a core of nearly liquid hot burrata. An application of pepperoni oil—simply diced, cured sausage and oregano suspended in olive and Calabrian chile oils—spells true redemption for this wretched snack. On the side of a perfunctory cheeseburger there are fluffy, pale golden fries draped in a light cheddar Mornay sauce and scattered with pickled shishito, cayenne, and Calabrian chile peppers (the fries come with the beef sandwich too).
I’m betting Regards to Edith will do a whole lot better in this spot than Smack Shack, the Minneapolis-based lobster pot that preceded it. That’s assured if the weaker entries on the menu catch up to the stronger ones. v
326 N. Morgan 312-763-6564regardstoedith.com
