Just about a year ago Logan Square’s Osteria Langhe emerged as a unique specimen among an overwhelming and frequently confounding menagerie of Italian restaurants. Scottish-born chef Cameron Grant lived and trained in Piedmont, where he absorbed the traditions of that particular hallowed regional cuisine, and put those values on display at Osteria Langhe with excellent product, proper portioning, restrained saucing, and rigorous pasta making, tempered with an impulse to innovate that very rarely overreaches.
As with the gnocchi, Cameron’s superb pasta-making skill is in evidence. Thick, ribbony pappardelle can stand on its own even without its appealing ragu of Wagyu beef cheeks. Cameron doesn’t mess with his signature plin, delicate, ethereal ravioli stuffed with molten, funky La Tur cheese (a Piedmontese specialty), though an order runs $15, a dollar more than it does at Osteria Langhe.
